Just Knock on the Tree
The Odyssey of the Coddiwompling Tortoise – Rozinante – and The Storyteller
(Coddiwomple: to travel in a purposeful manner toward a vague destination.)
A Higgledy-Piggledy Success
I thought I had seen it all … until I discovered Hard Body Chicken and rubbed shoulders with royalty.
Jazz club enthusiasts. Image Judy Barnes.
I gave its leg a hefty whack – nothing. Looking around furtively, in case I was being observed, I did it again. Still nothing – not even a dent. Apparently, it was true. Hard Body Chicken, (the kind grown at home, not bought at a butchery) has virtually indestructible bones – hence the name Hard Body. It’s considered a delicacy by Kuruman locals and I had discovered it at The Workshop Ko Kasi – probably one of the most unusual places – bar none – that you’ll come across.
The rustic facade hides many treasures. Image Judy Barnes.
I was eating inside a structure built from tyres, bricks and wooden palettes. Inventive? Well, the traditional African practice of making mud-dung flooring mixed with grass and other things had been worked into the upright palettes’ inner core to create solidified walls. It’s the brainchild of Mpho Cornelius, a young entrepreneur who has a multitude of plans for her future.
Mpho was living in Johannesburg, working for the SA Tourism Board, marketing the country locally and internationally, when her mother became gravely ill. This meant packing up her life in the Big Smoke and returning to the Northern Cape.
Mpho Cornelius Ko Kasi owner. Image Judy Barnes.
Her original idea, (about five years ago) was to open a spa. However, her mother wisely advised her to start up a laundromat. Mpho took some convincing but her mother explained that tourists and employees of the nearby mines would need their washing done – it was sustainable. The idea was a sound one that Mpho decided to follow. Now, she’s forging ahead with her fingers in many different pies. The laundromat is thriving and the spa will soon be fully functional. This is not a lady who allows the grass to grow under her feet yet she feels she’s only accomplished 40% of her plans.
Her father runs a panel beating and towing business next door and donated the adjoining land to his daughter, as long as she agreed to clear it of all the scrap metal. She did so and the resultant higgledy-piggledy design of the whole space has given The Workshop an unusual appeal. Nevertheless, as I was to discover, it is also a space that honours Tswana culture.
The boma. Image Judy Barnes.
Mpho showed me around and while I was familiar with the fact that a boma was a meeting place, I was not aware that, in the former absence of a written history, it was also the space where it was passed on verbally. This specific boma was also being used for poetry and storytelling. It was a skereme – a family boma. The idea was that ubuntu (a quality that includes the essential human virtues; compassion and humanity) is trying to be revived by creating a family vibe. In other words, give respect to all and expect respect from everyone else in return.
This mindful regard is continued at the Bogorogelo – the entrance area of the African spa, where shoes are removed before entering as it’s considered a holy place – because it serves a specific purpose. Only natural elements and attachments are used (e.g. water and soil) with treatment being centred around African rituals. For instance, if the person seeking a spa treatment needs to learn to nurture the earth, they will be given a hand broom and told to go outside and gently sweep it. Given all the hype about global warming, I was impressed by this simplistic, respectful ritual.
Lawrence Nels makes great pizzas and serves refreshments. Image Judy Barnes.
Indeed, as I sat in the courtyard enjoying a cool drink, many people approached me as they entered. Virtually all of them, probably noticing my few, ahem, wrinkles, automatically greeted me with a respectful handshake and a nod of the head. I thought of my late father, who loved visiting South Africa from overseas. I just presumed it was because he was seeing his precious daughter again but no, what he loved was the African people’s show of respect for age. How sad it is that we now live in a world where the old custom of formally greeting someone is often seen as unnecessary.
Mpho explained that she was more of a creative entrepreneur. Theatre, art, book launches and business opportunities were at the heart of her interests. The Workshop handles all these. A business workshop was in progress in the large hall, which often houses art workshops for crafters and musicians as well. Theatre productions from the Northern Cape theatres also visit and perform.
Visitor accommodation. Image Judy Barnes.
I was surprised to discover a number of tents for visitors’ accommodation. They were fully kitted out, right down to a torch with an ablution block close by.
This industrious entrepreneur also intends building a lodge and doing more community work. She explained that rural tourism was not yet developed in Kuruman but she has joined forces with other entrepreneurs for their services. For instance, if a woman makes wonderful cookies, better than their own, she will join forces with her. It’s a win-win situation for them both.
The Workshop also caters for tourists looking for something unusual to do – like visiting a man who grows vegetables using hydroponics and aquaponics or choosing between a short or long donkey cart ride. Collaborating with the owners, such as the owner of the donkey, uplifts the community.
Point a camera at children and you create a whole new story. Image Judy Barnes.
There was a snake park that was supposed to be opening soon and a tour around a Tswana village to learn about the traditions and food is proving very popular. Trips to the famous Wonderwerk Caves about 43km away is also high on tourists’ and locals’ lists alike, of must-do things.
If you’re feeling energetic, Mpho will take you up to the Ga-Mohana Holy Hill, one of the caves in the Kuruman Hills range where archaeologists from Griffiths University in Australia visit for a month, annually.
Tourism and hospitality awards line the walls. Image Judy Barnes.
Certificates of culture and lifestyle in the tourism and hospitality industry plus others for emerging entrepreneurs, won by The Workshop, are, in effect, almost starting to act as wallpaper. Many trophies also wave at you from a top shelf. The national finals have already been won twice by this inspired lady and her unusual ideas.
Fervent jazz enthusiasts meet regularly to socialise and play their favourite musicians. I was lucky enough to meet them. I felt like I was back in New Orleans, except they only play instruments for provincial get togethers. To socialise, it’s just CDs.
The giant Morabaraba board for serious contenders. Image Judy Barnes.
As for me, I even learnt how to play that popular board game, Mmela (or Morabaraba). However, I’m a long way away from taking on Mpho’s father, who is so good, he struggles to find opponents. I did win one game but was soundly trounced by the same 10-year-old thereafter.
Someone once said, ‘A dream must be shared by the entire community to succeed’. Mpho agrees and she is embracing her dream.
And does this high-flying businesswoman have any time for romance? Well, believe it or not, she does. She loves the chief or king, (as he prefers) of the Batlabele, Kagisho Molema. He takes his responsibilities very seriously too. When I was there, pre-Covid, they were both looking towards a happy future with children, living a natural life, away from the consumer lifestyle, making their own clothes and growing their own food. It’s no secret that she’s the queen of his heart. You can almost hear the next chapter, as Mpho states, “Yes, the king and I …” However, that’s a story for another day.
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